PAST REPASTS

Here are some capsule summaries of previously reviewed restaurants:

A Table Apart, 4295 Bonita Beach Road, Bonita Springs; 221-8540

The décor's not fancy but it is warm and inviting with light jazz and soft lights creating an oasis for dining well. The menu showcases chef/owner Jeffrey Acol's imaginative style. That features surprising innovations, such as fried calamari coated with nam pla (fermented fish sauce) served with Thai dressing, and fries gussied up with herbs, Parmesan cheese and white truffle oil. The chilled summer soup tasted of the ripe oven-roasted tomatoes from which it was made, enhanced with a bit of wasabi and cucumber ribbons. Organic salmon prepared two ways — lightly blackened and topped with citrus salmon ceviche — with a yuzu beurre blanc and blazing purple microgreens was downright exciting. Mr. Acol lightens up a ribeye by replacing potatoes with a refreshing Mediterranean cucumber salad. There's no skimping on dessert here. Both the elegant chocolate mousse and fresh brownie with ice cream were worth every calorie. Wine and beer served.

AZN, Mercato, 9118 Strada Place, Naples; 593-8818

This chic Pan-Asian establishment does a fine job of delivering the best of Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Indian and Vietnamese fare as well as intriguing cocktails, sake and a well-chosen wine list. Both the Shanghai spring roll and a dumpling combination (two each of shrimp, vegetable and pork) were beautifully plated. The spring roll was crisp, with great texture and enhanced with a side of mango vinaigrette. Wanchai walnut shrimp wasn't as colorful as other dishes, but the fried shrimp bathed in lemon aioli and topped with honey-coated walnuts lacked nothing in the flavor department. Crispy duck is the restaurant's take on Peking duck and was quite crisp, as advertised. A creative signature dessert, a Fuji apple dipped in chocolate, caramel and nuts, then sliced, managed to taste healthy and refreshing as well as rich and decadent.

Saffron, 2059 Pine Ridge Road; 331-3319

Saffron is a little tough to find tucked into a shopping center obscured by a gas station, but it's well worth the effort. The hospitable owners are friendly and helpful so even novices will find something they'll enjoy. With the help of several friends, I sampled several dishes and found them all well prepared, combining fresh ingredients and that heady mix of seasonings that makes Indian food so addictive. Spinach dip with house-made cheese spread on fresh naan was a delicious beginning. A sampler plate containing samosas, pakoras and kabobs served with mint chutney won praise from all as well. Salmon cooked in a tandoori oven was moist and well seasoned. Rogan josh, a classic lamb curry, paired well with Bombay dal, a savory cumin-scented lentil, onion and tomato dish. From the dozen or so breads, we sampled keema naan, which was stuffed with ground lamb; kabuli naan, which contained cashews and raisins; and paneer kulcha, filled with house-made cheese, coriander and onion. All were tender, warm and delicious. Mango kulfi, a frozen blend of mango puree, cream and sweetened condensed milk, proved a great ending to a delicious and economical meal. Beer and wine served.

Sea Salt, 1186 Third St. South; 434-7258

Chef Fabrizio Aielli was the darling of the Washington, D.C. political elite before he and his wife, Ingrid, decided they should head south and enjoy success and a gentler climate. And so was born Sea Salt, this season's in spot. No expense has been spared in the chic, modern décor, the voluminous wine list or the painstakingly prepared food. Curry coconut black mussels and a salad of red and gold beets with mache and pecan-crusted goat cheese were excellent starters, although those with a taste for carpaccio, raw oysters or meats and cheeses will find suitable options as well. The menu changes regularly so some dishes aren't going to be available but the limoncello-marinated salmon with green lentil mustard sauce, as well as the wild halibut and veal osso buco ravioli were outstanding. Desserts include house-made gelato and a sushi-style menu of Norman Love chocolates. The pistachio gelato with tomato marmalade was rich and velvety, the tiny almond linzer torte three bites of bliss. Our pair of servers were true professionals, adding polish to an excellent meal. Full bar.