Sea Salt wins, but Esquire columnist shows snobbish side

By now you’ve probably heard that Sea Salt was named one of the nation’s best new restaurants of 2009 by Esquire magazine. I’m thrilled that chef/owner Fabrizio Aielli won national recognition for his imaginative and well-executed cuisine and a menu that changes with what’s fresh and what inspires him. And I think it’s lovely that restaurant writer John Mariani calls Mr. Aielli’s wife, Ingrid, “a Slovakian Salma Hayek.”

But I find the manner in which Mr. Mariani paid them tribute in the November issue downright boorish. Here’s an excerpt: “Having sold their superb ristorante, Teatro Goldoni, in D.C., the Aiellis are giving Naples a break from fried catch o’ the day.”

Oh really?

Perhaps Mr. Mariani should have stuck around town long enough to at least peruse the menus of a few other restaurants, even if he couldn’t bring himself to dine in any of them. Had he done so, he might have discovered such offerings as the wild bonito with pomegranate seeds and pomegranate foam served at IM Tapas, the orange miso-glazed sea bass with goat cheese dumplings at M Waterfront Grill, the spicy seafood gilani at Bha! Bha! Persian Bistro and the Inca’s wari fish at Inca’s Kitchen.

Ingrid and Fabrizio Aielli of Sea Salt Fried catch o’ the day indeed!

As those who live and visit here know, the prowess of Naples’ culinary professionals would be impressive in cities far larger and, by Mr. Mariani’s standards, more sophisticated than little ol’ Naples.

Mr. Mariani went on to praise Mr. Aielli’s food at the expense of legendary restaurants in Rome and Venice. Nice for Mr. Aielli, not so much for Rome’s acclaimed chef Heinz Beck and his peers.

It’s also puzzling that he chose to compare the food at Sea Salt only to that of restaurants in Italy. While Mr. Aielli is Italian, his restaurant is not. He recently told me he finds it frustrating that people come in expecting an Italian menu when the primary focus is seafood, along with artisanal and organic ingredients, with which he fashions dishes that show influences from around the world and that consistently delight and surprise.

It’s terrific that Sea Salt has received such broad exposure. It is unfortunate, however, that Mr. Mariani exposes his elitist perspective in the process.

French bakery widens availability

French Bread Oven’s been in Naples a long time, but its profile and business started rising like a yeast-laden loaf of bread when long-time French culinarians Andre Gratesol and Eric Truglas bought it last spring.

Two weeks ago, they opened a Fort Myers branch. Both bakeries are open seven days a week. They’ve also expanded the number of farmers markets at which they sell their fresh breads, brioche, macaroons and other baked goods. Here are the markets at which you can find them: Promenade in Bonita Springs on Wednesdays and Saturdays; Third Street South and Davis Boulevard markets in Naples on Saturdays; Fridays at the Collection at Vanderbilt market that began last week; and, starting Nov. 18, Wednesdays at Veterans Park on Marco Island.

The Naples bakery is at St. Andrews Square, 8793 Tamiami Trail E. Call 732- 7774. The first Saturday of each month, have complimentary champagne and brioche and pick up some baking tips from 10 to 11 a.m. with Mr. Truglas and Mr. Gratesol. Chocolatier earns accolades best

If you’ve tasted Norman Love’s chocolates, you don’t need Dessert Professional Magazine to tell you he’s one of the best at what he does. On the other hand, national acclaim never hurts. Mr. Love was recently named one of the top 10 chocolatiers in North America for 2009 by the publication and will be honored at the 12th annual New York Chocolate Show on Friday, Oct. 30. He’ll also be featured in the magazine’s December edition.

Norman Love Confections’ Chocolate Salon is at 11380 Lindbergh Blvd., Fort Myers. Call (239) 561-7215. His chocolates are also available at Sea Salt, 1186 Third Avenue South, and online at www.normanloveconfections.com.

Iron chefs face off on Marco

Lovers of the popular “Iron Chef” TV show can get a ringside seat to a similar competition when Iron Chef Marco Island takes place Sunday, Nov. 15, at Bistro Soleil, 100 Palm St.

Chefs from Arturo’s Italian Restaurant, Bistro Soleil, Café de Marco, Chef’s Express, CJ’s on the Bay, Island Café, Marriott’s Marco Island Resort and Verdi’s American Bistro will form two teams, each of which will prepare four dishes containing a secret ingredient. They will also create a flambé dessert.

The cost is $85 per person, which includes hors d’oeuvres, dinner and the show.

A cash bar will be available.

The competition is sponsored by the Marco Island Area Chamber of Commerce, the Marco Island Restaurant Association and the Marco Island Eagle. Reserve tickets by Tuesday, Nov. 10, by calling 394-7549.

Bamboo Café starts loyalty program

Frequent diners reap rewards when they patronize Bamboo Café French Home Cooking. The restaurant offers Bamboo Bonus Dollars to guests with a minimum $75 check per meal. The loyalty certificates provide a 20 percent discount, up to $25 per check, when recipients return for another meal within 60 days. Bamboo Cafe is at 755 12th Avenue South. For details and reservations, call 643-6177.

Chef returns to Bonita Springs

Chef Martin Murphy is back after an 18-month sojourn north. He’s returned to the Robb & Stucky KitchenAid Culinary Center, but now it’s his own business: Chef Martin Creative Catering.

“It’s exciting to be back,” he said while sautéing a pan of scallops and greeting new arrivals at his welcomeback reception. “I’ll be doing lots of classes and dinners, and can handle all kinds of catering and private parties.”

He also offers an assortment of hard-to-find gourmet condiments.

Upcoming classes include tapas (Nov. 2), thrifty meals (Nov. 4), a tour of Italy (Nov. 9) and Thanksgiving traditions reinvented (Nov. 18). For reservations, call (866) 206- 3840 or visit www.RobbStucky.com/ culinary-center.aspx.

Angelina’s announces specials

Angelina’s Ristorante is now open from 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays in addition to its usual hours of 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Food and wine specials continue through November, with half-price appetizers, flatbreads and antipasti platters in the lounge and all bottles of wine priced at $150 or less also discounted 50 percent. Angelina’s is at 24041 Tamiami Trail in Bonita Springs. Call 390-3187 or reserve online at www.angelinasofbonitasprings. com. 