PAST REPASTS

Here are some capsule summaries from previous reviews:

. A Table Apart, 4295 Bonita Beach Road, Bonita Springs; 221- 8540

The décor’s not fancy but it is warm and inviting, with light jazz and soft lights creating an oasis that’s well-suited to dining well. The menu showcases chef/owner Jeffrey Acol’s imaginative style. That features surprising innovations, such as fried calamari coated with nam pla (fermented fish sauce) served with Thai dressing, and fries gussied up with herbs, Parmesan cheese and white truffle oil. The chilled summer soup tasted of the ripe oven-roasted tomatoes from which it was made, enhanced with a bit of wasabi and cucumber ribbons. Organic salmon prepared two ways—lightly blackened and topped with citrus salmon ceviche—with a yuzu beurre blanc and blazing purple microgreens was downright exciting. Mr. Acol lightens up a ribeye by replacing potatoes with a refreshing Mediterranean cucumber salad. There’s no skimping on dessert here. Both the elegant chocolate mousse and fresh brownie with ice cream were worth every calorie. Wine and beer served.

. Inca’s Kitchen, 11985 Collier Blvd., Golden Gate; 352-3200

It’s love at first bite at Inca’s Kitchen, where the menu showcases the lively Peruvian culinary palette. Chef/owner Raphael Rottiers and partner Alfredo Ruiz make customers feel immediately welcome in this lovely, unpretentious Golden Gate establishment. Dinner starts with a bowl of roasted corn kernels and three flavorful (but not spicy hot) pepper sauces for dipping. The mixed ceviche was exceptionally good and the portion was large enough for two. Also good were the conchitas a la Parmesana (scallops on the half shell baked with Parmesan cheese). A delicious sashimi-like dish, dua tiradito, featured marinated fish served with pepper sauces. Inca’s wari fish is seared on a griddle, seasoned and baked to perfection then served with a mango salsa, corn and cilantro. Another standout was the lomo a la Huancaina, sliced beef tenderloin with red onions and creamy queso blanco. Not only is the food wonderful, the most expensive dish is $17. Don’t miss this one. Beer and wine served.

. Mister Five, 1716 Airport Road South; 262-1555

This tiny establishment packs a big diner punch with its down-home menu on which everything—yes, everything—is priced at $5. It’s as close to a Jersey diner as you’ll find in these parts (with better prices) and is the brainchild of 20-something Anthony Chinaglia, whose family hails from the Garden State. Breakfast is served all day, including tuxedo pancake (with dark and white chocolate chips and chocolate sauce). We tried super crisp chicken wings with a just-right hot and sweet sauce; a Cape Cod salad, with lettuce, dried cranberries, apple slices, walnuts, tomato and onions; a creditable Philly cheese steak; and a fried fish sandwich that was surprisingly good given that said fish was inexpensive basa. The accompanying fries were crisp and tasty, too. I can’t think of a place other than fast-food joints where you get food for this price and none that equal its quality. Beer and wine served.

. Naples Tomato, 14700 Tamiami Trail; 598-9800

A vast wine selection and a menu of American Neapolitan cuisine make this a justifiably popular establishment. I particularly like that the management buys its tomatoes from local farms and the kitchen makes its own pasta. The Real Deal Crab Cake appetizer is one of the best I’ve had south of Baltimore and is worthy of its name. A pane cotto—escarole, white beans, bread and Parmesan cheese— was another great starter. The pasta sampler was a winner, with raviolinni in Bolognese sauce, lasagna and shrimp and vegetables over angelhair pasta. Only the bland rainbow trout disappointed. For dessert, I can heartily recommend the Chocoholic, a warm chocolate cake with chocolate sauce and ice cream. Full bar.

. Tavern on the Bay, 489 Bayfront Place; 530-2225

It’s a sports bar but one that offers a more diverse selection of food and drink than one might expect in a place where people gather to cheer on their teams via satellite TV. Revel in wings, burgers, nachos and such if you want but there are also wok dishes, salads and full-scale entrees, some even of a heart-healthy nature. Thai Bangkok wings were crisp, sweet and spicy, while an ahi tuna appetizer was lightly seared with a peppery-herbed exterior accompanied by pickled ginger, wasabi and soy vinaigrette. A mushroom Swiss burger was well executed, served with delicious house-made potato chips and a fried shrimp platter with fries was bountiful and tasty with the exception of some room temperature slaw. Service was above average throughout the meal, from the host to the server and expediters. Full bar.