Naples Florida Weekly
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Here’s to champagne and its bubbly counterparts




VALLE

VALLE

Everyone knows there are a few musts on New Year’s Eve: a countdown, a kiss and a glass of something sparkly to sip. For centuries, champagne and its bubbly counterparts, from Italy’s prosecco to California’s sparkling wines, have heralded that good times are on the way and have been a mainstay of celebrations since about 1600, when an English chemist figured out that adding a little sugar to the wine barrels resulted in vintages that awakened the senses with fizz and pop.

Though the technology required to trap carbon dioxide in a bottle of wine to create effervescence was originally developed in the 1500s, it was a chemist named Christopher Merrett of the Royal Society of London who discovered in 1662 that a little bit of sugar was key to acquiring a consistent fizz. Even though Dom Perignon is credited as being the father of “second” fermentation, Mr. Merrett and English glassmakers — who were key to producing bottles strong enough to withstand the pressure required to create the effervescence — created sparkling wines for the English decades before the French.

ZELAYA

ZELAYA

But where does the tradition of drinking champagne on New Year’s Eve come from?

According to food historians, as the Catholic church fell out of favor during the revolutions of the 18th and 19th centuries, the public required secular rituals to replace religious ones: For instance, instead of a ship being traditionally blessed by a priest with holy water, it would be “christened” by a pastor with champagne. The drink quickly became associated with luxury, good fortune and optimism, particularly since it was a beverage limited only to the luxury class who had many more reasons and opportunities to celebrate life’s little victories.

MERRILL

MERRILL

These days practically anyone can pick up a bottle of Korbel or Freixenet for little more than the cost of a 12-pack of paper towels, but for those times when you’re in the mood for something a little more exciting — New Year’s Eve, perhaps? — we asked local wine experts to tell us about some sparklers that will spark the palate and inspire optimism for 2018 when the clock strikes midnight.

¦ Higor Valle

Sommelier at The Continental

Larmandier-Bernier, “Terre de Vertus,” Blanc des Blancs, Champagne, France 2009 – One of the true gems in Champagne, Larmandier-Bernier is a small grower estate with 15 biodynamically farmed hectares in Grand Cru & Premier Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs. With no sugar added, “Terre de Vertus” is a sharp Blanc des Blancs that boasts great depth, with notes of almonds, lemon zest and cantaloupe.

Caraccioli Cellars Brut Cuvée, Santa Lucia Highlands, California 2010 – Caraccioli is making some of the most compelling sparkling wines in United States. It’s a must-try for anyone who loves bubbles. And if you haven’t heard about them, don’t worry; they tend to stay under the radar. But trust me on this one, and get to them before everyone else. The 2010 Brut Cuvée is powerful, balanced and complex. 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir.

Thierry Germain & Michel Chevré, “Bulles de Roch,” Brut, Saumur NV – Thierry Germain is quickly becoming a star in the Loire Valley, and this wine is a great effort from this talented winemaker. It’s pure, mineral-laden and crisp while being fun and approachable. At around $60 on a wine list, it’s also one of the best deals in the sparkling world. 90 percent chenin blanc, 5 percent chardonnay and 5 percent cabernet franc.

¦ Lizet Zelaya

Director of Wine, Sea Salt Naples

Soter Mineral Springs Brut Rosé 2012 – This “lean and racy” wine is some of the most exciting being produced in America. I’ll attribute a bit of bias to this since I tasted this at the top of Soter’s Mineral Springs Hill while snacking on freshly shucked Pacific oysters. But at that moment, no other wine felt as pure, clean and perfectly appropriate as this mouth-watering beauty.

Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs, Millésimé 2006 – When asked to describe this wine in one word, I said “voluptuous.” It turned out that was the same word the winemaker had chosen for it. There are no excuses or apologies for the supple style of this Champagne. This is the fuller, rounded out style the vintage turned out for Bruno Paillard, and the winemaker took full advantage of it to make this bombshell of a wine. Lemon meringue, dried orange peel and an extra brut style wake up your palate, while the completely integrated fine bubbles leave a luscious mouthful of mousse after each sip.

Krug Grande Cuvée – “Elite” best describes the wines of Krug, which simply cannot be confused with any other. The attention to detail and painstaking selection of only the best grapes and barrels is clear when you sip on this luxurious beauty. Layer upon layer of subtleties caress each of your taste buds and make this an experience you won’t forget. The flavors combine the ripest apples, tart lemons and succulent grapefruits and then perfectly balance them with toasted brioche, honey and warm spices. As if the experience weren’t fabulous enough already, prepare yourself for an incredible finale of bubbly perfection. his is an experience you shouldn’t miss.

Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rosé 2006 – Just thinking about this sublime wine instantly makes me flashback to the moment I first tasted it. The Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon testifies that nature and precise human hands can give us the possibility of experiencing perfection. The delicate flavors of cherries and red apples hang in balance with the subtle aromas of red roses, wild strawberries and a hint of cedar. These flavors engage in a graceful dance where one component never outshines another, resulting in a wine with backbone and body that is something I’ve daydreamed about more than once or twice.

¦ Rhea Merrill

Sales manager, Lurcat Catering

Syltbar Prosecco – This light and crisp prosecco from Friuli, Italy is 100 percent glera grape. It goes through a double fermentation process that results in superior taste and the remnants of only natural fruit sugar. It is also naturally very low calories, but you would never know by the taste. It pairs very well with fresh seafood from the gulf coast — think grilled grouper with salsa verde and black rice (one of chef Jack Raben’s most amazing dishes) and gulf pink shrimp cocktail. It also has no added sulfites, which can trigger those dreaded morning-after headaches. I highly recommend this prosecco for sipping and pairing with food. Try the sparkling rose version if you want a sip that is a little sweeter.

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvee Sublime – This blend of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes is effortlessly luxurious. Although it’s overall crisp and light, I pick up a tropical component that smells and tastes like a bit of Caribbean holiday. I enjoy champagne at brunch, and this pairs well with sweet fruit-filled crepes and mango-chicken salad profiteroles. For a fun presentation, I love to serve with a slice of candied Florida citrus.

Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs – This is one of my favorite American sparkling wines. Produced from pinot noir grapes from Carneros and Anderson Valley combined with the chardonnay grape, it has a soft, feminine pink tint and looks as beautiful as it tastes. I love to pair this with creamy brie and spiced nuts or with an entrée such as roasted chicken with miso-mustard sauce. ¦

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